Click to Text Pictures of tub.
Call Us
It takes me approximately 4 to 5 hours to refinish a tub unlike some others who claim to be in and out in an hour or less. "Low Balling Speed balls" I call them. Some claim they are in an out in 1 hour on to the next.
I schedule just your refinishing for the day. Not rushing your tub to get somewhere else or showing up late tired and, sloppy.
I put masking around the areas to be protected and, using an HVLP system, there is a minimal amount of
overspray.
Fumes from this process are exhausted out a window .
This is a refinish which is similar to a painted car. It has limitations. It is a good option where warranted however, the best option is a new good quality tub.
This is why I offer just professional cleanings where I leave the original surface in place when color is not an issue.
Tub below was not refinished. I stripped off a DIY kit and, cleaned up back to original porcelain. Sometimes this is an option sometimes not. It depends on condition of original surface and if epoxy primers where used.
Contractors Especially Please Read.
AC a must in Summer
Heat a Must in Winter
I need the decision maker there.
There are question and options I need to discuss.
Don't just leave me there. I have questions for you as the job progresses.
For example sometimes people are happy with the tub just cleaned.
Please don't schedule me on the same day that you are having other
work done in the house such as carpentry work, Sheetrocking/Taping,
Floor sanding. I am not responsible for dust landing on your tubs finish.
If it's humid out A/C is required. A window unit in adjacent bedroom
should be ok.
I can't refinish the tub if the walls above it are exposed studs. Finish
your tiles. At the very least have the backer board up. You can grout
just don't caulk yet.
I will need electricity, running water in tub and, access to the
bathroom. (no joke, someone said I would have to climb through an
upstairs window)
If it's cold outside I will need heat as well. The surface of the tub and
glaze has to be above certain temperature or there can be issues.
Please clean the bathroom of all dirt and dust. If I Refinish the tub, this
is a sprayed on application and you don't want dirt/hair/dust in the
tubs finish. I clean the tub and use florescent additives in bonding agent which I take a black light to. Its to be sure I get full coverage of the bonding agent however, it also shows anything and i mean anything on the tub before I start spraying. I'm not spraying in a "Clean Room".
I'm not responsible if dust/hair ends up in coating. Dust is landing on your tub now and after its refinished. Most dust will knock off with normal usage. Please don't expect a brand new tub from the factory although I do hear it a lot.
If you are replacing the tile above the tub please do this first. Please protect tub with a sheet of plywood
before pulling the tile off. Go ahead and grout the tile to the tub just don't caulk it.
If your putting a new floor in (especially if its marble. Marble tiles are very easily damaged) I'd prefer to
refinish tub prior to new floor going in. You can pull up new floor and install new subfloor. There's just a
lot of different type of floors going in today that I'd don't want to worry about. etc marble n slate
• Do you have shower doors? Please remove doors before I arrive.
There is no warranty in the track area if they are left on. I strongly recommend removing them. Be careful
when removing track ledge of tub can chip. Most times people remove the doors and tracks and go to a
curtain or new doors after the tub has been refinished.. Please visit www.mrshowerdoor.com
(VERY IMPORTANT)
• Plumbing should be in good working order. Dripping faucets, and any installation of hardware should all
be done prior to my arrival. Drain does not have to be removed! However, we would appreciate the
removal of the overflow from the tub.
• Is there is fresh paint on the walls? There's a chance of paint being pulled off from the masking tape. I
especially find this where sheetrock is right up against the front skirt of the tub. Just a heads up.
• Please remove all caulking on the tub surface prior to our arrival. Grout does not have to be removed. If
this is an issue for you I can do it for you.
• Please be sure to clean the tub well with an abrasive cleaner before I arrive to remove any soap film.
Excessively dirty tubs will incur additional cleaning charges.
• Please make sure the bathroom is cleared out of any loose articles, such as shower curtains, window
curtains, rugs, items on counters etc. Anything that isn’t in a cupboard or drawer, that can be removed
from the bathroom should be. I will do any necessary covering of walls and floors.
• Please vacuum the bathroom as well to clean up all dust and hair. There's air movement and we don't
want it landing on your tub.
• Is the toilet or vanity in the way of the front of the tub. I need at least a foot to
get my spray gun in their to spray the front of the tub. If in doubt please send
me a picture.
• Do you have a bathroom window? Please make sure it opens, and that storm windows and screens are
functional prior to our arrival. (An exhaust fan gets placed in the window) If there is no bathroom window
please have a window available for me to run an exhaust hose out of.
Remove masking paper in 24 hours and caulk where the tile meets the tub. Make sure the caulk you use
is water soluable (LAYTEX). No Silicone types. These are solvent based and very difficult to work with
and won't clean off with water.
Reinstall your trip lever (over flow plate) by dropping the weighted end into the overflow pipe, line up the
screw hole and reinstall the two screws. If a drain screen was removed, lay it over the drain, line up the
hole and install the screw.
Please be advised that I usually have three shades of white on hand.
A) China/Kohler White 95% time used
B) Pure White
C) American Standard White
By default I typically choose color to match toilet which 95% of time is Kholer. There are 1000's of shades of white. I am not responsible if it does not match your tile. If you want to see the colors please request so when I get there before I start working on tub.
Also be advised that I am not responsible if after the tub is done it makes your old tile look bad. This does happen thats why its a good idea to replace old tile prior to having tub refinished.
I don't refinish tiles anymore. If they are old so is the backer board which probably needs replacing as well. Besides those 4x4 tiles have a dated look regardless.
CT LIC #611303
TUBCARE
Refinishing tubs since 2005. I do all my own work and, schedule just your refinish for the day so I'm not rushing your tub.
Lots of times all that is needed is my cleaning.
See Cleaning video below.
Lots of times all that is needed is my cleaning.
See Cleaning video below.
Call Us
If you are looking into replacing your tub
consider Refinishing first. Or maybe all it needs is just a good professional tub cleaning, Chip repaired or drain repair.
consider Refinishing first. Or maybe all it needs is just a good professional tub cleaning, Chip repaired or drain repair.
Bathtub refinishing, Bathtub reglazing Bathtub cleaning Bathtub chip repairs.
It takes me approximately 4 to 5 hours to refinish a tub unlike some others who claim to be in and out in an hour or less. "Low Balling Speed balls" I call them. Some claim they are in an out in 1 hour on to the next.
I schedule just your refinishing for the day. Not rushing your tub to get somewhere else or showing up late tired and, sloppy.
I put masking around the areas to be protected and, using an HVLP system, there is a minimal amount of
overspray.
Fumes from this process are exhausted out a window .
This is a refinish which is similar to a painted car. It has limitations. It is a good option where warranted however, the best option is a new good quality tub.
This is why I offer just professional cleanings where I leave the original surface in place when color is not an issue.
Tub below was not refinished. I stripped off a DIY kit and, cleaned up back to original porcelain. Sometimes this is an option sometimes not. It depends on condition of original surface and if epoxy primers where used.
FAQs
Q. How long does it take to refinish a tub?
A. Approximately 4 to 5 hours. I schedule just your refinishing for the day. I will arrive between 8 n 8:30am
till noonish. Prior Refinished tubs longer.
Q. How long do I have to wait before I can use my tub after refinishing?
A. It can be used in 24 hours.
Q. Are you Certified, Licensed and Insured & rated by BBB?
A. Yes, I'm A+ on BBB and I'm also A rated on Angie's List with Super Service Award that only goes to the top 5%.
Q. How long will the process last?
A. Many years, depending on the care it gets. Similar to a car.
Q. Can you change the color of my tub?
A. Yes
Q. What should I do before you arrive?
A. Remove all items from the countertops and bathtub area.
Clean the tub the best you can.
Dry off above walls.
Vacuum the area. We don't want dust blowing onto the surface. Not responsible for dust.
Remove caulk between tile and tub if you can.
Remove overflow and screen on drain if possible.
Q. Will there be fumes?
A. Yes, there are fumes generated however, I vent the fumes out a window with a commercial exhaust system,
This works extremely well in my opinion.
Q. What is the cost compared to a plastic cover system?
A. Ive been told plastic tub liners are about $2200. Standard refinish is about a 1/3 or the cost. Lots of times just my cleaning with do it for 1/6th the cost.
Q. How far out are you usually scheduled?
A. I usually range from 1 to 2 weeks. I typically don't advertise. Just my website here and, word of mouth so I'm usually
not booked out that far. I don't want to have to tell people that I can't get to them within a reasonable time.
Q. Why isn't it cheaper to buy a new tub?
A. When you factor in the total cost of the installation of a new tub with our price, you
will find that Refinishing saves time and money! When you consider the cost of hiring a plumber/contractor as well as
purchasing the new tub, you will see that the price far exceeds Refinishing your existing tub. I complete my work in less
than one day. Therefore, in most cases, I can save you time, money and mess.
Q. Do you change any of the plumbing fixtures?
A. Plumbing problems (leaks, broken fixtures, etc.) must be resolved before the tub is refinished by a licensed plumber
which I am not.
Q. What about my shower door?
A. Doors must be removed prior to refinishing the tub. Tracks can be masked off but it's highly recommended that they
are removed as well. ( No guarantee against peeling around track if not removed)
Q. What is the topcoat used?
A. A high performance; two-component chemically cured Acrylic Urethane Gloss Enamel. LOW VOC
Q. Why do different companies charge different prices?
A. It's like anything else you may get in the market place - you get what you pay for. To do a bathtub for only $400,
shortcuts are taken, and a cheaper material has to be used. Also, the specialized equipment may not be part of this
process. Being a legitimate company also does cost more. In addition I only Refinish your tub for the day so I can do a
good job. Others may be rushing to get to others or showing up late in day tired doing sloppy work. I call them low balling
speed balls. These guy are on forums boasting how they can do them in an hour or less doing multiple tubs a day.
To Refinish a bathtub professionally so it will look like new and, last for many years, there can be no compromise on
materials, procedure, or equipment. This will cost a few dollars more but you will be happy with the results.
Q: Can I refinish my tub with a DIY kit found in stores?
A: I highly don't recommend it. Many times I'm called to refinish a tub done by one of these.
In my opinion they really should not be sold but, they do give me work when they fail and they will.
There are a 2 sides here. On one hand they get me work on the other they give refinishing a bad rap.
DIY kits are limited in strength and durability. They just don't last. They are usually made of an epoxy coating that can
take many days to dry and yellows a lot over time. Most kits are rolled or brushed on, not given you a professional look.
Some kits are sprayed on with an aerosol can, causing uneven coverage, dry spray and drips. The professional look you
really want cannot be done without proper training and the use of proper spraying equipment $ materials.
Q. I can buy a bathtub for $300. So why Refinish?
Yes you can buy a bathtub for a $300 but, first of all you're buying a cheaper bathtub. You would be lucky if it lasts 3
years. Then you have the expensive of putting it in. You need a tile guy, the bathtub has a lip that goes under the first
row of tiles. The floor tiles will probably crack next to the bathtub when removing the old one. Next you need a plumber in
install all the plumbing fixtures, and hope the pipes don't break when your removing the old bathtub, or installing the new
drain. This $300 bathtub will take several weeks to install and a thousands in labor and tile work. That's without any
major plumbing issues. Chances are you would end up with a much inferior tub then what you are replacing.
If you do decide to replace the tub do yourself a favor and get a quality one.
BEFORE I ARRIVEQ. How long does it take to refinish a tub?
A. Approximately 4 to 5 hours. I schedule just your refinishing for the day. I will arrive between 8 n 8:30am
till noonish. Prior Refinished tubs longer.
Q. How long do I have to wait before I can use my tub after refinishing?
A. It can be used in 24 hours.
Q. Are you Certified, Licensed and Insured & rated by BBB?
A. Yes, I'm A+ on BBB and I'm also A rated on Angie's List with Super Service Award that only goes to the top 5%.
Q. How long will the process last?
A. Many years, depending on the care it gets. Similar to a car.
Q. Can you change the color of my tub?
A. Yes
Q. What should I do before you arrive?
A. Remove all items from the countertops and bathtub area.
Clean the tub the best you can.
Dry off above walls.
Vacuum the area. We don't want dust blowing onto the surface. Not responsible for dust.
Remove caulk between tile and tub if you can.
Remove overflow and screen on drain if possible.
Q. Will there be fumes?
A. Yes, there are fumes generated however, I vent the fumes out a window with a commercial exhaust system,
This works extremely well in my opinion.
Q. What is the cost compared to a plastic cover system?
A. Ive been told plastic tub liners are about $2200. Standard refinish is about a 1/3 or the cost. Lots of times just my cleaning with do it for 1/6th the cost.
Q. How far out are you usually scheduled?
A. I usually range from 1 to 2 weeks. I typically don't advertise. Just my website here and, word of mouth so I'm usually
not booked out that far. I don't want to have to tell people that I can't get to them within a reasonable time.
Q. Why isn't it cheaper to buy a new tub?
A. When you factor in the total cost of the installation of a new tub with our price, you
will find that Refinishing saves time and money! When you consider the cost of hiring a plumber/contractor as well as
purchasing the new tub, you will see that the price far exceeds Refinishing your existing tub. I complete my work in less
than one day. Therefore, in most cases, I can save you time, money and mess.
Q. Do you change any of the plumbing fixtures?
A. Plumbing problems (leaks, broken fixtures, etc.) must be resolved before the tub is refinished by a licensed plumber
which I am not.
Q. What about my shower door?
A. Doors must be removed prior to refinishing the tub. Tracks can be masked off but it's highly recommended that they
are removed as well. ( No guarantee against peeling around track if not removed)
Q. What is the topcoat used?
A. A high performance; two-component chemically cured Acrylic Urethane Gloss Enamel. LOW VOC
Q. Why do different companies charge different prices?
A. It's like anything else you may get in the market place - you get what you pay for. To do a bathtub for only $400,
shortcuts are taken, and a cheaper material has to be used. Also, the specialized equipment may not be part of this
process. Being a legitimate company also does cost more. In addition I only Refinish your tub for the day so I can do a
good job. Others may be rushing to get to others or showing up late in day tired doing sloppy work. I call them low balling
speed balls. These guy are on forums boasting how they can do them in an hour or less doing multiple tubs a day.
To Refinish a bathtub professionally so it will look like new and, last for many years, there can be no compromise on
materials, procedure, or equipment. This will cost a few dollars more but you will be happy with the results.
Q: Can I refinish my tub with a DIY kit found in stores?
A: I highly don't recommend it. Many times I'm called to refinish a tub done by one of these.
In my opinion they really should not be sold but, they do give me work when they fail and they will.
There are a 2 sides here. On one hand they get me work on the other they give refinishing a bad rap.
DIY kits are limited in strength and durability. They just don't last. They are usually made of an epoxy coating that can
take many days to dry and yellows a lot over time. Most kits are rolled or brushed on, not given you a professional look.
Some kits are sprayed on with an aerosol can, causing uneven coverage, dry spray and drips. The professional look you
really want cannot be done without proper training and the use of proper spraying equipment $ materials.
Q. I can buy a bathtub for $300. So why Refinish?
Yes you can buy a bathtub for a $300 but, first of all you're buying a cheaper bathtub. You would be lucky if it lasts 3
years. Then you have the expensive of putting it in. You need a tile guy, the bathtub has a lip that goes under the first
row of tiles. The floor tiles will probably crack next to the bathtub when removing the old one. Next you need a plumber in
install all the plumbing fixtures, and hope the pipes don't break when your removing the old bathtub, or installing the new
drain. This $300 bathtub will take several weeks to install and a thousands in labor and tile work. That's without any
major plumbing issues. Chances are you would end up with a much inferior tub then what you are replacing.
If you do decide to replace the tub do yourself a favor and get a quality one.
Contractors Especially Please Read.
AC a must in Summer
Heat a Must in Winter
I need the decision maker there.
There are question and options I need to discuss.
Don't just leave me there. I have questions for you as the job progresses.
For example sometimes people are happy with the tub just cleaned.
Please don't schedule me on the same day that you are having other
work done in the house such as carpentry work, Sheetrocking/Taping,
Floor sanding. I am not responsible for dust landing on your tubs finish.
If it's humid out A/C is required. A window unit in adjacent bedroom
should be ok.
I can't refinish the tub if the walls above it are exposed studs. Finish
your tiles. At the very least have the backer board up. You can grout
just don't caulk yet.
I will need electricity, running water in tub and, access to the
bathroom. (no joke, someone said I would have to climb through an
upstairs window)
If it's cold outside I will need heat as well. The surface of the tub and
glaze has to be above certain temperature or there can be issues.
Please clean the bathroom of all dirt and dust. If I Refinish the tub, this
is a sprayed on application and you don't want dirt/hair/dust in the
tubs finish. I clean the tub and use florescent additives in bonding agent which I take a black light to. Its to be sure I get full coverage of the bonding agent however, it also shows anything and i mean anything on the tub before I start spraying. I'm not spraying in a "Clean Room".
I'm not responsible if dust/hair ends up in coating. Dust is landing on your tub now and after its refinished. Most dust will knock off with normal usage. Please don't expect a brand new tub from the factory although I do hear it a lot.
If you are replacing the tile above the tub please do this first. Please protect tub with a sheet of plywood
before pulling the tile off. Go ahead and grout the tile to the tub just don't caulk it.
If your putting a new floor in (especially if its marble. Marble tiles are very easily damaged) I'd prefer to
refinish tub prior to new floor going in. You can pull up new floor and install new subfloor. There's just a
lot of different type of floors going in today that I'd don't want to worry about. etc marble n slate
• Do you have shower doors? Please remove doors before I arrive.
There is no warranty in the track area if they are left on. I strongly recommend removing them. Be careful
when removing track ledge of tub can chip. Most times people remove the doors and tracks and go to a
curtain or new doors after the tub has been refinished.. Please visit www.mrshowerdoor.com
(VERY IMPORTANT)
• Plumbing should be in good working order. Dripping faucets, and any installation of hardware should all
be done prior to my arrival. Drain does not have to be removed! However, we would appreciate the
removal of the overflow from the tub.
• Is there is fresh paint on the walls? There's a chance of paint being pulled off from the masking tape. I
especially find this where sheetrock is right up against the front skirt of the tub. Just a heads up.
• Please remove all caulking on the tub surface prior to our arrival. Grout does not have to be removed. If
this is an issue for you I can do it for you.
• Please be sure to clean the tub well with an abrasive cleaner before I arrive to remove any soap film.
Excessively dirty tubs will incur additional cleaning charges.
• Please make sure the bathroom is cleared out of any loose articles, such as shower curtains, window
curtains, rugs, items on counters etc. Anything that isn’t in a cupboard or drawer, that can be removed
from the bathroom should be. I will do any necessary covering of walls and floors.
• Please vacuum the bathroom as well to clean up all dust and hair. There's air movement and we don't
want it landing on your tub.
• Is the toilet or vanity in the way of the front of the tub. I need at least a foot to
get my spray gun in their to spray the front of the tub. If in doubt please send
me a picture.
• Do you have a bathroom window? Please make sure it opens, and that storm windows and screens are
functional prior to our arrival. (An exhaust fan gets placed in the window) If there is no bathroom window
please have a window available for me to run an exhaust hose out of.
Remove masking paper in 24 hours and caulk where the tile meets the tub. Make sure the caulk you use
is water soluable (LAYTEX). No Silicone types. These are solvent based and very difficult to work with
and won't clean off with water.
Reinstall your trip lever (over flow plate) by dropping the weighted end into the overflow pipe, line up the
screw hole and reinstall the two screws. If a drain screen was removed, lay it over the drain, line up the
hole and install the screw.
Please be advised that I usually have three shades of white on hand.
A) China/Kohler White 95% time used
B) Pure White
C) American Standard White
By default I typically choose color to match toilet which 95% of time is Kholer. There are 1000's of shades of white. I am not responsible if it does not match your tile. If you want to see the colors please request so when I get there before I start working on tub.
Also be advised that I am not responsible if after the tub is done it makes your old tile look bad. This does happen thats why its a good idea to replace old tile prior to having tub refinished.
I don't refinish tiles anymore. If they are old so is the backer board which probably needs replacing as well. Besides those 4x4 tiles have a dated look regardless.
CT LIC #611303
TUBCARE
Tub is water cured and, can be used 24 hours after refinishing but, is still curing. More forgiving as days go by.
Must wait 30 days
before applying any Tape even painters tape. It needs to fully cure.
No bath-bombs and or dyes, Including hair dyes.
Thank you for your business and we know you’ll love the new look of your freshly refinished fixture. Our product will provide you many years of continuous service but proper care should be taken. Just like any remodeling process, you need to take care of it in order for the condition to maintain. Proper cleaning of the bathtub will ensure the finish stays looking great.
You can help the tub keep clean by taking a towel to it after use. This will tape up soap and minerals with the water.
Use only non-abrasive cleaners and non-abrasive scrubbing pads. Do not use bleach or products containing bleach. Stay away from powders or soft scrub gels, as they can deteriorate and dull the surface (e.g. comet, Ajax, Soft Scrub, Magic Erasers). Products that are oil or wax-based, such as Pinesol, can leave a waxy residue or dull your finish as well. Other products to avoid include, but are not limited to: Mr. Clean Magic Erasers, hard bristle brushes, & steel wool. Liquid cleaners and soft cloths or sponges are best. We suggest these products: Blue Scotch-Brite (non-scratch) pads; Zep- Shower, Tub, and Tile Cleaner; 409; Lysol Tub & Tile cleaner; Scrubbing Bubbles; or a DIY mixture of vinegar & water. PLEASE THOUROUGHLY RINSE THE TUB WITH WATER AFTER USING A CLEANER. Using a detachable showerhead to rinse down shower after each use is an easy way to keep the tub clean in- between cleanings.
For hard water stains Wash tub with approved cleaner. Dry tub, then use CLR (in yellow bottle, NOT the kind in the gray bottle) on rust stains and let sit for 10 minutes. Rinse and wash tub again with approved cleaner.
We recommend the use of a shower caddy or basket to eliminate shower items sitting on the bathtub ledges. Items sitting on the ledges can cause standing water which could possibly discolor the finish over time.
Remember, regular bathmats and appliqués
CANNOT
be used on the bathtub once it has been refinished. you can use bathmat made for refinished tubs. you can find them on Amazon.
No plastic toys.
No plastic tipped steam cleaners.
No juggling Bowling balls.
No washing Engine blocks.
No Bon fires in tub.
Etc Etc Etc...
I can't list here every scenario that you shouldn't do to tub but, you get the idea.
If you damage the tub there will be a charge for me to repair it.
No solvents shall ever be used on a refinished fixture. For example, Lacquer thinner, acetone or isopropyl alcohol.
This is a refinished tub which is similar to a painted car. It has limitations. It is a good option where warranted however, the best option is a new good quality tub.
This is why I offer just professional cleanings where I leave the original surface in place when color is not an issu.
Call or Text : 203-984-3931
E-mail : gary@bathtubrx.com
Picture of tub helpful!!!
E-mail : gary@bathtubrx.com
Picture of tub helpful!!!
RESTORED TUB ABOVE NOT REFINISHED.
This is a possible option that I believe I'm the only one offering it in CT. Ask for details.
This is a possible option that I believe I'm the only one offering it in CT. Ask for details.
Serving Fairfield County, Danbury area and Milford area. Not NY
.